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Refinance Calculator

See your new monthly payment, break-even point, and lifetime savings from refinancing, including discount points and the option to roll closing costs into the loan.

$

What you still owe on your current mortgage.

%

The annual rate on your current loan.

years

Years remaining on your current loan.

$

Optional. Your actual current principal and interest payment. Leave at 0 to derive it. An override below the interest-only amount is unrealistic and skews the comparison.

%

The annual rate on the new loan.

years

Length of the new loan.

$

Upfront cost to refinance, before any discount points.

%

Optional points paid to lower the rate, as a percent of the loan. The fee is points percent times the base loan (balance plus cash-out).

$

Extra cash borrowed against your equity, added to the new loan. Leave at 0 for a rate-and-term refinance.

If yes, closing costs and points are added to the new loan instead of paid in cash, raising the payment but leaving nothing to recoup upfront.

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New monthly payment

$2,022.62

Principal and interest on the new loan.

Current monthly payment
$2,128.97
Monthly savings
$106.35
Break-even
57 months
New loan amount
$320,000.00
Discount points fee
$0.00
Upfront cost (break-even basis)
$6,000.00
Lifetime interest saved
$38,285.92
Net lifetime savings
$32,285.92
New loan balance over time
New loan cumulative interest

Assumptions

  • Both loans are fixed-rate and fully amortizing. Interest is charged each month on the remaining balance, the monthly rate is the annual rate divided by 12, the number of payments is the term in years times 12, and each payment is made at the end of the month.
  • Your current monthly payment is derived by amortizing the current balance over the years remaining at the current rate. If you enter a payment override above 0, that figure is used instead for the monthly savings and break-even, but lifetime interest saved still uses the derived amortization, so an override does not move it. An override below the interest-only amount is unrealistic and will distort the comparison.
  • The base loan is your current balance plus any cash-out. Cash-out is added to the new loan only, not your current one, so it raises the new payment and the new loan's interest.
  • Discount points are an optional fee paid to lower the rate. The fee is the points percent times the base loan (current balance plus cash-out), not the rolled-in total, so the definition is not circular. It is treated as a cost alongside closing costs.
  • If you roll closing costs into the loan, the closing costs and the points fee are added to the new principal, which raises the payment and the lifetime interest. If you do not roll them in, they are paid upfront.
  • Break-even is the upfront cost (closing costs plus points, when paid upfront) divided by the monthly savings, rounded up to a whole month. When you roll those costs into the loan, nothing is paid upfront, so the break-even is 0 months. That 0 means there was no upfront cost to recoup, not that the refinance pays for itself instantly; the cost instead shows up as a higher payment and lower lifetime savings. If the new payment is not lower, there is no break-even.
  • Lifetime interest saved is the interest remaining on your current loan minus the total interest on the new loan. It can be negative, because restarting a longer term can raise total interest even at a lower rate.
  • Net lifetime savings is the lifetime interest saved minus closing costs and points, whether you pay them upfront or finance them into the loan. Cash-out is not subtracted, because it is money you receive and then repay through the loan.
  • All figures are in nominal dollars and are not adjusted for inflation, and the comparison does not account for the time value of the upfront cost beyond the simple break-even count.
  • Each month's interest is rounded to the nearest cent (half up), and the final payment absorbs any leftover rounding so the balance ends at exactly zero.
  • Not modeled: property taxes, homeowners insurance, PMI, and HOA dues; the tax deductibility of mortgage interest or points; rate changes over time; and extra or early payments. The payments shown are principal and interest only.
  • This is an estimate for educational purposes only, not financial, legal, or tax advice. Your lender's figures will differ, and closing costs, points, and rates vary by lender. Consult a qualified professional and your lender for numbers specific to your situation.

How it works

Refinancing replaces your current loan with a new one. This calculator compares the two using the same fixed-rate amortization formula behind the mortgage calculator:

M = P · r · (1 + r)^n / ((1 + r)^n − 1)

where P is the loan amount, r is the monthly interest rate (annual rate ÷ 12), and n is the number of monthly payments (years × 12). Every figure is computed with decimal-precise math, not binary floats, so the cents are correct.

Two payments are produced. Your current payment is found by amortizing your current balance over the years left at your current rate. Your new payment amortizes the new loan principal at the new rate over the new term. The new principal is your current balance plus any cash-out, plus the closing costs and discount points if you choose to roll them into the loan. Three comparisons follow:

  1. Monthly savings is the current payment minus the new payment. A negative value means the new payment is higher.
  2. Break-even is the upfront cost (closing costs plus any discount points) divided by the monthly savings, rounded up to a whole month. It is how long it takes the monthly savings to repay what you paid upfront. If you roll those costs into the loan instead, nothing is paid upfront, so the break-even is 0 months. If the new payment is not lower, there is no break-even.
  3. Lifetime interest saved is the interest remaining on the current loan minus the total interest on the new loan. It can be negative: a longer term spreads payments out, so even a lower rate can raise total interest.

Worked example

A $250,000 balance at 7% with 27 years left, refinanced to 5.5% over a fresh 30 years, with $4,000 in closing costs:

  • New payment: amortize $250,000 at 5.5% over 30 years = $1,419.47 per month
  • Current payment: amortize $250,000 at 7% over 27 years = $1,719.54 per month
  • Monthly savings = $1,719.54 − $1,419.47 = $300.07
  • Break-even = $4,000 ÷ $300.07 = 13.3, rounded up to 14 months
  • Lifetime interest saved = $46,116.71, and after closing costs the net lifetime saving is $42,116.71

The break-even of 14 months means that as long as you keep the loan past about a year and a half, the refinance pays for itself.

The term-reset trap

Watch the term, not just the rate. Refinancing a loan with 15 years left into a fresh 30-year loan at a lower rate can still increase your total interest, because you are paying for 15 extra years. This calculator shows lifetime interest saved as a negative number when that happens, so the trade-off is visible instead of hidden behind a lower monthly payment.

A note on cash-out

If you enter a cash-out amount, the new loan is larger, so lifetime interest saved will look worse. That is expected: a cash-out refinance is a way to borrow against your equity, not primarily a way to save on interest. Judge it on the cash you need and the new payment, not on the interest comparison.

What is not included

Discount points and the option to roll closing costs into the loan are both modeled (see the inputs above). What is not modeled: property taxes, homeowners insurance, PMI, and HOA dues; the tax deductibility of mortgage interest or points; rate changes over time; and extra or early payments. The payments shown are principal and interest only. All figures are in nominal dollars, and the break-even does not adjust for the time value of money. Results are estimates for education, not advice; your lender’s numbers will differ.

Sources

Frequently asked questions

When does refinancing make sense?
Refinancing usually makes sense when the new rate is low enough that your monthly saving recoups the closing costs well before you plan to sell or refinance again, and when you are not extending the term so far that you pay more total interest. Compare the break-even months and the lifetime totals, not just the rate.
What is the break-even point on a refinance?
It is how many months it takes for your monthly savings to add up to the closing costs you paid. If closing costs are $4,000 and you save $200 a month, the break-even is 20 months. Past that point the refinance is saving you money.
Can refinancing cost more even at a lower rate?
Yes. Restarting a 30-year term resets you to the interest-heavy early years, so a lower rate spread over a longer term can still raise your total interest. This calculator shows lifetime interest saved, which can be negative, so you see the full picture.
Should I roll closing costs into the loan?
Rolling closing costs and points into the loan means you pay nothing out of pocket, so there is no upfront cost to recoup and the break-even shows as 0 months. The tradeoff is a larger loan: your new payment is a little higher and you pay more interest over the life, which is why the net lifetime savings is lower than paying upfront. Paying upfront recoups over the break-even months but keeps the loan and payment smaller. Compare the net lifetime savings under both choices.
What are discount points?
Discount points are an optional upfront fee paid to the lender to lower your interest rate. One point is one percent of the loan amount. This calculator computes the points fee as the points percent times your base loan (current balance plus cash-out) and counts it as a cost, either paid upfront or rolled into the loan. Whether points are worth it depends on how long you keep the loan: the lower rate has to save more than the points cost before you sell or refinance again.

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Last reviewed June 2026. For education, not financial advice.